Each Chef Ought to Study Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.

Jennifer Smith
Jennifer Smith

A seasoned business strategist with over 15 years of experience in corporate growth and digital transformation across UK enterprises.